Collection: Wool Tweeds

Our Scottish Estate Tweed heritage inspired our modern Wool Tweed collection. We have been weaving blended tweeds since 1841 and introduced the Lovat Mixture in 1845, one of the first examples of tweed designed as a camouflage. We used the colours of the local landscape to create a fabric that would disguise ghillies, gamekeepers and the Lovat family on their estate in the Scottish Highlands. Tweed has remained an essential part of our repertoire, and we are holders of a Royal Warrant for the supply of Estate Tweed cloth to the Royal household.    

This season, we reimagined the subtle tones of nature to give our Wool Tweeds a modern edge. The fabrics utilise our own lambswool fibres in 3ply yarns, showcasing as many as 24 individual colours in each melange. Despite the complexity of colour, these new designs have a tranquil aesthetic.

Five Estate Tweed patterns feature in this collection:

Gun Club - This tweed originated on the Coigach Estate on the West Coast of Scotland and, in 1874, was adopted by a US Gun Club. The name was changed from Coigach to Gun Club because the former was too difficult to pronounce. It’s now known globally as a Gun Club check. 

Hairline - This is a fine check often seen in traditional Scottish Estate Tweeds. Closely spaced lines or ridges give the fabric a subtle texture reminiscent of hair strands. 

Herringbone - Dating back to the Roman Empire, this V-shaped pattern is based on the backbone of a fish. It was traditionally used in road paving systems and the textiles and jewellery of the Egyptian elite.

Houndstooth - Houndstooth textiles date back as far as the Bronze Age, and this pattern was first seen in its contemporary form in the Scottish Lowlands in the 1800s. Houndstooth was worn by those who weren’t allowed to wear tartan, so it became the tweed associated with those without a noble title or who weren’t members of a clan. As a result, Houndstooth can also be known as a Shepherd Check.

Glen Check – A Glen Check tweed combines a traditional Shepherd Check with a Hairline pattern. There are many different Glen Check patterns, the first of which was the Glenurquhart - the most famous of all tweed patterns. The original Glenurquhart design dates back to 1840 and was adapted by Caroline, Countess of Seafield, for use on her Estate. To help weaver William Fraser understand her instructions, the designer sketched the pattern in the mud outside a cottage door.