Glossary

A curated guide to knitwear terminology, designed to help you understand the craftsmanship, structure, and fibres behind every Johnstons of Elgin piece.

Knitting Techniques & Structures

Argyle

A knitted diamond pattern, traditionally Scottish, crafted using the intarsia technique.

Aran

Aran knitwear features traditional raised textures such as cables, honeycombs, and diamonds, originally developed by fishermen on Ireland’s Aran Islands. These bold, structured patterns offer excellent warmth and durability. At Johnstons of Elgin, we honour this heritage while reimagining Aran knits in the finest Scottish-spun Cashmere and Merino Wool.

Cable

Cable knitwear features twisted or braided patterns that create a three-dimensional texture. Originally developed to mimic ropes for seafarers, cable designs now symbolise classic craftsmanship. Johnstons of Elgin cable knits are spun from the world’s finest fibres for softness with striking structure.

Chunky

Chunky knitwear uses thick yarns and lower stitch gauges to create bold, cosy pieces with a tactile quality. Ideal for cold climates, our chunky knits offer insulation and a relaxed aesthetic, without compromising refinement.

Fair isle

Fair Isle knitting uses multiple colours to create intricate, horizontal patterns. Named after the Scottish island where it originated, this technique is rooted in tradition and revived in our collections using fine Cashmere for a softer, contemporary finish.

Fisherman's Rib

A variation of the rib stitch, Fisherman’s Rib creates a lofty, plush texture with great stretch and resilience. It lends a relaxed, luxurious feel to pullovers, scarves, and beanies in our cold-weather collections.

Float Stitch

Knitting float stitch is where we knit the stitches in a row, then miss (hold) other stitches in the same row, which creates a line/float of yarn. If we float over one needle and knit with two different colours, this will create a stitch called ‘Birdseye’. If we float the yarn over 2 needles or more, this will show a float stitch.

Intarsia

These terms describe exceptionally light knits crafted from ultra-fine yarns like Superfine Cashmere or Merino. Designed for layering and travel, they offer warmth without weight — a hallmark of Johnstons of Elgin spring–summer collections.

Jabot

A decorative lace neckline detail, inspired by the formal dress of Highland dancers & pipers.

Jacquard

Jacquard knitting creates complex patterns by interweaving multiple yarns. Unlike prints, these patterns are built into the fabric itself. We use jacquard techniques to produce rich textures and refined detailing in select seasonal pieces.

Milano Stitch

Milano stitch is a compact knit construction with a clean, flat surface — ideal for creating structured garments like skirts and jackets. We use it to achieve tailored shapes while maintaining comfort and flexibility.

Moss Stitch

Moss stitch is a textured knit made by alternating knit and purl stitches. It creates a subtle, tactile surface that’s both elegant and durable — ideal for modern classics.

Waffle

A textured pattern that resembles the surface of a waffle, created by alternating raised and recessed stitches. Waffle knits are breathable, tactile, and ideal for casual layering.

Signature Styles & Silhouettes

Cardigan

A versatile open-front knitwear style, the cardigan is a timeless wardrobe staple. Whether buttoned or zipped, chunky or featherlight, our cardigans are crafted for layering, travel, and year-round wear, using the softest Scottish Cashmere and Merino Wool.

Crew Neck

The crew neck is a classic, close-fitting round neckline. Loved for its timeless silhouette, it works effortlessly with shirts or worn alone. Johnstons of Elgin crew necks are available in featherweight to chunky options, suitable for every season.

V-Neck

The V-neck creates a clean, elongating line, ideal for layering over shirts or wearing alone. Our V-neck styles are knitted with precision to balance depth and coverage.

Roll Neck / Polo Neck

A high collar that folds over to envelop the neck, offering both insulation and elegance. Roll necks are signature winter staples crafted in soft Cashmere or Merino for breathable warmth.

Shawl Collar

A wide, curved collar that folds back softly. Often found on cardigans and knitted jackets, the shawl collar adds a heritage feel and extra warmth around the neckline.

Gilet

A sleeveless layering piece, the gilet adds warmth while allowing full range of motion. Our gilets are crafted in Cashmere or double-faced wool, ideal for layering over knitwear or under outerwear.

Sabrina Neckline

A wide, gently curved neckline that subtly frames the collarbone.

Open Milano Collar

A clean, structured collar with a modern open neckline, inspired by Milanese tailoring.

Raglan Sleeve

Sleeve style with diagonal seams from underarm to neckline for a relaxed fit and easy movement.

The Finest Fibres

Cashmere

A luxuriously soft and insulating natural fibre, sourced from the undercoat of
cashmere goats. Known for its exceptional softness, warmth-to-weight ratio, and
breathability.

Superfine Cashmere

‘Superfine’ refers to the diameter of the fibre — the finer it is, the softer and lighter the feel. Superfine Cashmere deliver exceptional softness with featherlight warmth, perfect for trans-seasonal dressing.

This innovative, featherlight yarn combines the indulgence of our classic yarns with an airy feel.
Made using the finest natural fibres, it offers a cool handle with an even softer touch. It promises evenly distributed airflow and reliable temperature regulation - perfect for year-round wear

Performance Cashmere

‘Performance Cashmere’ is a yarn with 3% Lycra; therefore, the composition is 97% Cashmere, 3% Lycra. This composition is mainly used for our loungewear.
The Lycra percentage helps to prevent the fabric ‘sagging’ – particularly at the knees on Jogger and Culottes styles.

Merino Wool

Merino wool is a superfine natural fibre from Merino sheep. Exceptionally soft, it regulates body temperature, resists odours, and wicks moisture. Our Merino knits are breathable, lightweight, and ideal for transitional layering.

Vicuña

Merino wool is a superfine natural fibre from Merino sheep. Exceptionally soft, it regulates body temperature, resists odours, and wicks moisture. Our Merino knits are breathable, lightweight, and ideal for transitional layering.

Lambswool

Lambswool is the soft, fine wool from a lamb’s first shearing. It’s naturally insulating, breathable, and beautifully soft. Johnstons of Elgin uses premium Lambswool spun and dyed in Scotland for our core knitwear range.

Superfine Worsted Wool

The Johnstons of Elgin and merino wool stories are closely intertwined, with the Merino sheep first introduced to Australia in 1797, the same year Alexander Johnston established our family company.
We source the finest Merino Wool available anywhere in the world, from flocks of free-roaming sheep whose extra fine wool is three times finer than human hair. Unlike synthetic fabrics, merino is a naturally active fibre in tune with changes in body temperature making it ideal for all climates. Superfine Worsted Merino Wool is distinctive because it is stronger, finer, smoother, and more durable than standard merino. Johnstons of Elgin 100% Superfine Worsted Merino Wool garments help you to stay warm when the weather is cold, and cool when the weather is hot, perfect for all seasons.

Featherlight Cashmere

These terms describe exceptionally light knits crafted from ultra-fine yarns like Superfine Cashmere or Merino. Designed for layering and travel, they offer warmth without weight — a hallmark of Johnstons of Elgin spring–summer collections.

Finishing Techniques

Double-Faced

Double-faced knitwear features two layers of fabric expertly linked together. Both sides are fully finished, making garments reversible or exceptionally structured. This technique reflects our commitment to quality, weight, and comfort.

Blocking / Blocked

A finishing process that shapes and sets the dimensions of a knitted garment using moisture and gentle stretching to enhance drape and fit.

Felted

Felted wool undergoes a process of heat, moisture, and agitation to produce a dense, durable fabric with natural insulation. Our felted pieces balance structure and softness, offering a refined alternative to outerwear.

Worsted-Spun

Smooth, strong yarn made from long fibres, giving a clean, refined finish.

Woollen-Spun

Softer, loftier yarn made from shorter fibres, with a warmer, more textured feel.

Craftsmanship & Knitwear Terms

Ply

Ply indicates how many strands of yarn are twisted together. A 2-ply knit offers softness and light warmth, while higher ply counts (such as 4- or 6-ply) produce denser, warmer, more robust garments. We carefully select ply based on garment function, comfort, and longevity.

Gauge

Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch in a knitted fabric. A low-gauge knit is thicker and more textured, while a high-gauge knit is finer and smoother. Our expert makers adjust gauge to suit both fibre and function, achieving the ideal balance of warmth and breathability.

Linking

Linking is the artisan technique used to join pieces of a knit garment. Rather than sewing, each stitch is looped by hand or machine for seamless joins. This method preserves stretch, shape, and comfort in every finished piece.

Whole garment / Seamless

Seamless knitwear is crafted in a continuous process without side seams, using advanced technology. This method minimises waste and maximises comfort — a future-facing technique with a heritage feel.

Yarn-Dyed

Yarn-dyed garments are made using yarn that is dyed before being knitted. This technique produces deeper, longer-lasting colour with more character and richness — part of our commitment to lasting quality.

Neps

A small knot or cluster of entangled fibres that give Donegal yarn its unique ‘speckled’ appearance.

Pilling

Pilling refers to the small balls of fibre that may form on the surface of knitwear through natural friction. Our high-quality fibres are less prone to pilling, and any minor bobbles can be gently removed with a de-pilling comb to maintain a smooth finish.

Fine Guage

A light, closely knit structure that gives a sleek and refined finish.

Placket

The front opening of a garment, often housing buttons or fasteners.

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