The story of our natural fibres begins with animals. From cashmere goats roaming the grasslands of Mongolia to Merino sheep grazing across Australia, responsible sourcing starts with respect for the animals at the source.
Animal welfare begins at the source
At Johnstons of Elgin, we work with some of the world's finest natural fibres, including cashmere, Merino wool and vicuña. Each fibre has its own origin, production system and relationship with the people who care for the animals.
Our approach is to work with recognised standards and responsible sourcing programmes that provide frameworks for animal welfare, land management and traceability.
This means looking beyond the fibre itself and considering the conditions in which animals live, how they are handled and how the wider ecosystems on which they depend are managed.
Cashmere goats
In Mongolia, cashmere goats are part of a traditional pastoral way of life. Nomadic herders move with their livestock between seasonal pastures, caring for goats alongside sheep, horses, cattle and other animals.
The relationship between herder and herd is central to this way of life. Animals provide fibre, food, transport and income, while herders depend on their health and wellbeing for their livelihoods.
Cashmere production therefore has a close connection with both animal welfare and the health of the grasslands on which livestock depend.
Working with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance
Johnstons of Elgin is a founding member of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, a non-profit organisation working across the cashmere supply chain.
The SFA works with herding communities and other supply chain participants to support responsible cashmere production, including animal welfare, biodiversity, land use, decent work, fibre quality and effective management.
The SFA Animal Fibre Standard became effective on 1 April 2025. It replaced the previous SFA Cashmere Standard and is focused on responsible cashmere production at herder level.
Johnstons of Elgin currently states that 100% of its cashmere fibre is sourced from SFA-certified suppliers.
The wellbeing of the herd and the wellbeing of the people who care for it are closely connected.
A modern approach to cashmere goat welfare
The SFA Animal Fibre Standard uses the Five Domains model to consider animal welfare through nutrition, physical environment, health, behavioural interactions and mental state.
Nutrition
Access to appropriate food and water to support health, growth and normal function.
Physical Environment
Appropriate surroundings, shelter and living conditions that support comfort and safety.
Health
Attention to disease, injury, physical condition and other factors affecting animal health.
Behavioural Interactions
Opportunities for animals to express natural behaviours and interact appropriately with their environment.
Mental State
Consideration of positive experiences and the reduction of fear, pain, distress and discomfort.
People, animals and tradition
Animal welfare is closely woven into pastoral life. In Mongolia, herders live alongside their animals and depend on their health for food, fibre, transport and income.
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance works with communities to combine traditional knowledge with scientific evidence and recognised welfare practices.
This community-led approach recognises that responsible production needs to work within the realities of different landscapes, cultures and livestock systems.
Merino sheep
Johnstons of Elgin has a long history with Australian Merino wool. Merino sheep were introduced to Australia in 1797, the same year the company was established.
Merino sheep naturally grow and shed a new fleece each year, making wool part of the animal's natural life cycle.
Today, our wool sourcing focuses on recognised responsible production systems that consider both sheep welfare and the health of the land on which they graze.
Responsible Wool Standard
Johnstons of Elgin purchases wool that is certified to the Responsible Wool Standard, or RWS.
The RWS is a voluntary standard developed to improve the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on. Certified farms are assessed against animal welfare and land management requirements, with chain of custody controls used to track certified wool through the supply chain.
The standard incorporates the Five Freedoms of animal welfare and includes requirements relating to soil health, biodiversity and responsible land management.
Our approach to mulesing
Since 2019, Johnstons of Elgin states that it has only purchased wool from non-mulesed flocks, or from flocks where mulesing is carried out with appropriate pain relief.
Understanding the issue
Mulesing is a husbandry practice used in some Australian sheep farming systems to reduce the risk of flystrike, a condition that can cause serious injury and suffering if left untreated.
Animal welfare organisations, wool producers and industry bodies have different positions on how flystrike should be managed and on the use of mulesing. The Responsible Wool Standard requires non-mulesing as part of its animal welfare criteria.
Our sourcing policy focuses on purchasing from non-mulesed flocks or, where mulesing occurs, ensuring appropriate pain relief is used.
The Five Freedoms
The Five Freedoms remain a widely recognised framework for describing core animal welfare needs, and they are incorporated into the Responsible Wool Standard.
The Five Freedoms of sheep
The framework describes five fundamental freedoms that support good animal welfare.
Good Lifestyle
Freedom to express normal patterns of behaviour with sufficient space, suitable facilities and appropriate companionship.
Good Environment
Freedom from discomfort through suitable shelter and a comfortable environment.
Good Nutrition
Freedom from hunger, thirst and malnutrition through appropriate nutrition and access to water.
Good Handling
Freedom from fear and distress through good care, handling and management.
Good Health
Freedom from pain, injury and disease through appropriate care and veterinary attention.
Respect for animals, from source to fibre
Animal welfare is an essential part of responsible natural fibre sourcing.
For cashmere, this means working with herders and the Sustainable Fibre Alliance to support responsible production and improve animal welfare practices across the supply chain.
For Merino wool, it means sourcing through recognised standards that address sheep welfare, land management and traceability.
The result is a sourcing approach that recognises the connection between animals, people, landscapes and the natural fibres that eventually reach our mills in Scotland.
Because exceptional fibres begin with responsible care at their source.
Frequently Asked Questions
Learn more about animal welfare, responsible cashmere, Merino wool and the standards behind our natural fibres.
How does Johnstons of Elgin support animal welfare?
Johnstons of Elgin works with recognised sourcing programmes and standards that address animal welfare, responsible land management and supply chain traceability.
For cashmere, the company works with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance. For wool, it purchases Responsible Wool Standard certified wool.
Is Johnstons of Elgin cashmere SFA certified?
Johnstons of Elgin currently states that 100% of its cashmere fibre is sourced from suppliers certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.
The company began purchasing SFA-certified cashmere through a pilot programme in 2020 and increased its certified sourcing as capacity developed.
What is the SFA Animal Fibre Standard?
The SFA Animal Fibre Standard is the Sustainable Fibre Alliance's current herder-level standard for responsible cashmere production.
It covers five global principles: animal welfare, biodiversity and responsible land use, decent work, fibre quality improvement and effective management.
What are the Five Domains of animal welfare?
The Five Domains model considers animal welfare through nutrition, physical environment, health, behavioural interactions and mental state.
The SFA uses this model in its current approach to cashmere goat welfare, with an emphasis on positive experiences as well as reducing suffering and discomfort.
What is the Responsible Wool Standard?
The Responsible Wool Standard is a voluntary standard designed to improve the welfare of sheep and the land on which they graze.
It includes requirements relating to animal welfare, land management, social welfare and chain of custody. Certified farms are assessed by independent certification bodies.
Does Johnstons of Elgin use mulesed wool?
Johnstons of Elgin states that since 2019 it has only purchased wool from non-mulesed flocks, or from flocks where mulesing takes place with appropriate pain relief.
The company's wool sourcing also includes Responsible Wool Standard certified wool, and the RWS requires non-mulesing as part of its animal welfare criteria.
What are the Five Freedoms of animal welfare?
The Five Freedoms are a widely recognised framework covering freedom from hunger and thirst, discomfort, pain and disease, fear and distress, together with freedom to express normal behaviour.
The framework is incorporated into the Responsible Wool Standard for sheep welfare.
How are cashmere goats raised in Mongolia?
Many Mongolian herders practise pastoral herding, moving between seasonal grazing areas with their livestock. Goats are commonly kept alongside other animals such as sheep, horses, cattle and yaks.
The SFA recognises both the nomadic system in Mongolia and more farm-based systems in China, with welfare practices adapted to their different contexts.
How does animal welfare connect with sustainability?
Animal welfare, land management and herder livelihoods are closely connected in natural fibre production. Healthy animals depend on appropriate care, nutrition and environments, while pastoral communities depend on healthy livestock and landscapes.
Responsible sourcing therefore considers the animal, the people who care for it and the wider environment together.
