The story of cashmere begins far beyond our Scottish mills. It begins in the vast grasslands of Mongolia, where herders, animals and the land have been connected for generations.
A landscape under pressure
Mongolia's rangelands are an extraordinary landscape and an essential part of the story behind the world's finest cashmere. They are also under increasing pressure from a changing climate, changing grazing patterns and the challenges facing pastoral communities.
For Johnstons of Elgin, responsible cashmere means looking beyond the fibre itself. It means considering the land from which it comes, the animals that produce it and the people whose livelihoods depend upon them.
Why the grasslands matter
Mongolia is experiencing significant climate change. Rising temperatures, changing weather patterns and pressure on pasture can create increasingly difficult conditions for pastoral communities and their livestock.
For herders, healthy grasslands are essential to the wellbeing of their animals and the resilience of their livelihoods.
Responsible rangeland management therefore plays an important role in maintaining the balance between livestock numbers, grazing and the capacity of the land.
Protecting cashmere means protecting the ecosystem in which it begins.
Working with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance
Johnstons of Elgin is a founding member of the Sustainable Fibre Alliance, a non-profit organisation working across the cashmere supply chain from herders to retailers.
The SFA works with herding communities on responsible cashmere production, including animal welfare, biodiversity, responsible land use, decent work, fibre quality and effective management.
The SFA Animal Fibre Standard became effective in 2025. It replaced the previous SFA Cashmere Standard and provides a framework for responsible cashmere production at herder level.
Investing in the future
Sustainability is not only about the land that exists today. It is also about ensuring that the knowledge and skills needed to care for it continue into the future.
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance Young Herder Training programme was created to provide education for children of nomadic herders, helping to pass sustainable rangeland management knowledge to the next generation.
The programme combines scientific knowledge with traditional practices and Mongolian pastoral culture. Specially developed learning materials introduce modern approaches to sustainable rangeland management while recognising the importance of traditional knowledge.
The programme was launched in Khentii province and continues to form part of the SFA's wider work with young herders and herding communities.
Today, 100% of Johnstons of Elgin's cashmere fibre is sourced from suppliers certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.
Supporting people, animals and the land
Responsible cashmere cannot be separated into individual issues.
Healthy grasslands support livestock. Healthy livestock support herders. Sustainable herding communities also help preserve the pastoral traditions that have shaped Mongolia's landscape for centuries.
The SFA's approach reflects this interconnectedness, bringing together rangeland stewardship, animal welfare and livelihoods rather than treating them as separate concerns.
A more traceable future for cashmere
Traceability is an important part of responsible sourcing. The Sustainable Fibre Alliance Chain of Custody Standard provides a framework for tracking certified fibre through the supply chain.
Johnstons of Elgin made its first purchases of SFA-certified cashmere through a pilot programme in 2020 and increased its sourcing as certification capacity developed.
Today, 100% of Johnstons of Elgin's cashmere fibre is sourced from SFA-certified suppliers.
Responsible natural fibres
The same philosophy extends across the natural fibres we work with.
Johnstons of Elgin has a long history with Australian Merino wool. The first Merino sheep were introduced to Australia in 1797, the same year the company was established.
Johnstons of Elgin supports the Responsible Wool Standard, which addresses animal welfare, land management and traceability through the supply chain.
Within our Scottish vertical mills, generations of expertise allow us to maintain close control over the transformation of natural fibres into finished products.
A responsibility that begins at the source
The finest natural fibres are inseparable from the places where they begin.
For cashmere, that means the immense grasslands of Mongolia and the herding communities who depend upon them.
Our commitment is therefore about more than sourcing a beautiful fibre. It is about supporting systems that help protect the land, respect animal welfare, strengthen traceability and support the people who have cared for these landscapes for generations.
Because the future of cashmere depends upon the future of the grasslands.
Frequently Asked Questions
Discover more about sustainable cashmere, Mongolian grasslands and our work with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.
What is sustainable cashmere?
Sustainable cashmere considers more than the finished fibre. It encompasses the welfare of cashmere-producing animals, responsible management of the land they graze, the livelihoods of herding communities and greater transparency throughout the supply chain.
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance Animal Fibre Standard provides a framework for responsible cashmere production, including animal welfare, biodiversity and responsible land use, decent work, fibre quality and effective management.
Why are Mongolian grasslands important to cashmere?
Mongolia's grasslands provide the grazing environment for pastoral livestock, including cashmere goats. The condition of these rangelands is closely connected to animal health, herder livelihoods and the future of cashmere production.
Climate change, changing weather patterns and grazing pressure can place additional strain on these landscapes, making responsible rangeland management increasingly important.
What is the Sustainable Fibre Alliance?
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance is a non-profit organisation working across the cashmere supply chain. Its standards and programmes address responsible animal-fibre production, processing, chain of custody and assurance.
Johnstons of Elgin is a founding member of the SFA and works with the organisation on responsible cashmere sourcing and programmes supporting herder communities.
Is Johnstons of Elgin cashmere SFA certified?
Johnstons of Elgin states that 100% of its cashmere fibre is sourced from suppliers certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.
The company made its first purchases of SFA-certified cashmere through a pilot programme in 2020 and increased its sourcing as certification capacity developed.
How does the SFA help protect grasslands?
The SFA Animal Fibre Standard includes requirements relating to biodiversity and responsible land use alongside animal welfare, decent work, fibre quality and effective management.
The SFA also works with herding communities through training and other programmes designed to support responsible rangeland management and animal welfare.
How does climate change affect Mongolian herders?
Mongolia has experienced significant warming in recent decades. Changes in temperature, precipitation and extreme weather can affect pasture conditions and livestock, creating additional challenges for pastoral communities.
Maintaining healthy rangelands and supporting resilient herding communities are therefore important parts of responsible cashmere production.
What is the Young Herder Training programme?
The SFA Young Herder Training programme provides education for children of nomadic herders, helping to pass sustainable rangeland management knowledge to the next generation.
The programme combines scientific knowledge with traditional practices and Mongolian pastoral culture, using specially developed educational materials to introduce sustainable approaches to rangeland management.
How does cashmere traceability work?
The Sustainable Fibre Alliance Chain of Custody Standard provides a framework for tracking certified fibre through the supply chain. This helps establish where certified material comes from and how it moves through participating stages of production.
Traceability is important because it helps connect finished products with responsible sourcing practices further back in the supply chain.
